San Diego – beach suburbs Pacific Beach and Bird Rock

Pacific Beach, or PB as locally known, is a San Diego pocket where you can immerse yourself in the quintessential Californian lifestyle. The neighbourhood has a special place in my heart as two of my close friends live there. I have visited their ‘hood a handful of times, and made some glorious memories. Being a beach community, naturally there are parts that are geared to tourists with gift shops and beach memorabilia. Although this is part of the DNA of a beach suburb, for me PB is all about watching surfers, good food and hazy beers on my friends’ terrace after long beach strolls. No doubt my connection with the neighbourhood is fueled by my friends, however, whatever your agenda, PB is a neighbourhood that always evokes that sensation of ‘holiday’.

Although Pacific Beach is very young at heart, it embraces all generations who flock to the beach. The coastal Ocean Boulevard stretches over 3 miles along the beach and is pulsating with people cycling, running, skateboarding and roller-skating. Crystal Pier, dating back to 1927, is a charming central core of the promenade. It is a perfect vantage point to marvel at the sweeping coastline, waves and the skillful surfers below. A handful of small, historic pastel coloured holiday cottages are built on the pier that add touches of wooden coastal charm. The rest of the promenade is dotted with distinct architecture too, making it an interesting stroll to see how people in this part of the world live; it’s probably no surprise that you can expect plenty of BBQs, pools and sundecks.

Pacific Beach certainly isn’t just a local, hush-hush area as it is a crown magnet for visitors. And sure, the ‘hood has some corners and aesthetics that I am not too keen on: loud neon signs, buildings that look like cheap shopping complexes, fast food joints and sadly, lots of misfortunate people. The craziness is mainly scattered around Garnet Ave and Mission Blvd, and whilst this epicentre offers great places for food and drinks, otherwise I would skip this and prioritise time on the beach, in the cool microbreweries, restaurants and around the cute residential areas.

The neighbouring Bird Rock is a tiny sub-neighbourhood that neatly just seems to appear when walking down the coastal path; which is not hard as you seem to lose track of how many miles you’ve done admiring the views and top dollar houses. There are majestic spots to watch the waves, or sit on natural rocks and daydream. A coastal cycling path goes through the area so if you want to see more in a shorter period of time, rent a bicycle and get pedalling.

Despite the tiny size, Bird Rock has a great array of eateries and a handful of eclectic little shops. As the atmosphere is quieter than in most parts of the neighbouring Pacific Beach, it is nice to sit outside on multiple terraces and watch the streetlife, or get sandwiches and pastries from Wayfarer Bread & Pastry (5525 La Jolla Blvd) and take a picnic hamper to the beach. You can easily find surf boards and surf gear, as well as cool clothing and swimsuits. But the highlight of Bird Rock is the residential areas with the stereotypical Californian views. The further towards La Jolla I walked, the more I enjoyed the scenery, serenity and the residential architecture; this is the perfect hood if you want to see what you could get for a few million spare dollars.

Food scene

People flock to Pacific Beach and Bird Rock to enjoy the beach but the area also boasts a great food scene. Southern Californian classics such as avocado toasts, tacos, seafood and acai bowls are staple menu items. For cooling drinks, there are an impressive number of breweries and roof lounges. One of the top picks would be Amplified (4150 Mission Blvd) for delicious craft IPAs. Although their terrace does not have direct views of the ocean, the chilled summer ambience and excellent staff make up for it. Here are some places you should check for bites when visiting the neighbourhood:

Oscar’s Mexican Seafood
746 Emerald St

What would be more SoCal than fish tacos? Being right on the border, Mexican joints are ubiquitous in the city, and the coastal location means you are not far from fresh fish. Located a stone’s throw away from the beach, Oscar’s is a San Diego joint famous for their fish tacos.

The taqueria is surprisingly big behind a tiny surfer-shack facade. Don’t expect fancy seating or decor, this place is all about communal eating and fast food aesthetics. But the delicious food is far from the concept of fast food - also as it doesn’t come out fast nor is that cheap either. If you are lucky, grab a table outside to watch surfers wandering back and forth.

The menu focuses on seafood, whether fried, grilled or lime cured, but there are a couple of meaty and veggie Mexican favourites too if you have had enough of the ocean theme for the day. The ceviche seemed to be a solid hit whilst the massive torta would satisfy even the biggest appetite. The tacos are fresh, juicy and messy. Grab a bottle of their homemade creamy and spicy sauces to drizzle over for that extra little kick.

Surf Lounge
763 Turquoise St

Surf Lounge is a hybrid coffee lounge and surf shop; with an outdoor coffee cart, surf boards carried in and out from the back of the shop and friendly baristas that look the part, this place feels quintessentially Pacific Beach. The indoors are dominated by surf boards and ethically sourced merchandise, and this is where shaping and glassing of surfboards take place. There are a handful of window seats, but the coffee business is geared outdoors where drinks are crafted on a small coffee cart, and enjoyed on a small front patio. Sadly only take away cups are available, however, going with their eco friendly ethos the cups are compostable and clear of plastic. Although I prefer proper cups for the flavour aspect too, the coffee was delicious with robust notes of dark chocolate. The lack of a ‘proper’ coffee bar setting means the pastry selection is minimal, but for those with a sweet tooth, they make their own syrups with rotating seasonal flavours. Surf Lounge really feels relaxed and suited to the beach neighbourhood, and a big cheer to their ethically minded ethos.

Leilani’s Cafe
5109 Cass St

Some of the eateries and streets around Pacific Beach can become a bit too busy for my liking, but there are places where to grab a bite whilst breathing a bit easier. Leilani’s Cafe is a humble eatery away from the main drag that serves Hawaiian-style comfort food. There is no indoor seating but an ample terrace covered in trees. This place is super casual; cheap outdoor tables, window ordering, water fountain; you get the picture. But the food I had was delicious.

The menu is Hawaiian-inspired, including dishes such as loco moco, kalua pork, saimin soups and mac salad. Although it’s on the heartier, cholesterol-heavy side, there are some healthier options, such as my ahi salad. Whilst the salad left much to be desired as it was mere leaves, shredded cabbage and carrots, the seared ahi tuna was perfectly cooked; pink, incredibly soft and buttery in the middle with a crispy, salty and peppery crust. Leilani’s is not a place to go and celebrate a special day, but it is a great little local spot for uncomplicated, delicious food away from the hustle and bustle.

SOI PB Thai Street Food
4658 Mission Blvd

I love Thai food so when I have a chance to grab some fragrant lemongrass and lime infused food, I usually take up on the offer. Soi Thai Street Food serves up the usual suspects, such as fried rice, tangy, translucent noodles, green papaya loaded salads, creamy coconut curries and soups. The meals come out fast, at least during the week, and the whole concept seems to embrace this idea of quick meals. But, the setting is inviting enough to stay in and eat slowly, with lots of metal, corrugated galvanised steel wall panels and contemporary Thai pop art. Although this was not the best Thai food that I've relished, perhaps as it was a little too sweet for me, it did hit the right spot. Make sure you come hungry: the portion was so generous that I actually couldn’t finish the whole bowl.

PB Poke House
4150 Mission Blvd

PB Poke House is a tiny, no-frills establishment with a humble, unassuming front but one that whips up some incredible Hawaiian-inspired poke bowls. The menu has a dozen concoctions, with a variety of fish and island style dressings. I had a mixture of soft, flavoursome salmon and ahi tuna bathed in spicy mayo. Whilst the bowl doesn't have many vegetables, it comes with juicy seaweed salad, finely shredded crab, serrano peppers and avocado. Interestingly, the bowl was dominated by the fish instead of rice so whilst this may not be especially cheap fast food, you get a lot for your money. Also, the beach is just within minutes walk away so this is an ideal lunch bowl to take to the shore and enjoy the surfers and waves.

Wayfarer Bread and Pastry
5525 La Jolla Blvd

It’s not unusual to see long queues of people standing in front of Wayfarer Bread and Pastry; this small local bakery is known for their stellar baked goods so much so that patrons are happy to wait patiently for their treats. They concentrate on naturally fermented bread, and flakey, seasonal pastries made with fresh ingredients. I was a total mess after eating my cinnamon pastry; it was so flakey, full of intricate layers and finished with light cinnamon-sugar dust that I had to wipe my face and clothes afterwards. It was beautifully balanced with a creamy latte, made with beans from the renowned Sightglass Coffee roastery.

Wayfarer is an ideal place to fill a beach picnic hamper with freshly made sandwiches or pastries; if you rather have them there and then with a coffee, the seating is limited to a plant-filled outdoor terrace with only wraparound benches and no tables. Or, like myself, get a pastry and coffee and stay for a while, and then grab a freshly made sandwich with you before heading to the beach.

Dodo Bird Donuts
369 Bird Rock Ave

Located at the heart of Bird Rock, Dodo Bird is an upscale donut shop where the interiors are as sweet as the donuts.The mood is 70s tropical with leafy wallpaper and sage green panelling, faux green leather stools, and rattan armchairs. This day time cafe partially shares the space with trendy gourmet dining restaurant Paradisaea, so you can easily move from a sweet coffee break to fancy cocktails.

The glazed and sugared donuts are made from scratch in their partly exposed kitchen, and include staple favourites and rotating novelties. My Boston Cream was delicious although a bit more dense than I am used to, but the dark chocolate glazing nicely balanced the oozing custard. The strong coffee is crafted with beans from the San Diego local Dark Horse Coffee Roasters. For something a bit more fancy-pants, macadamia milk and sea salt mochas are on offer. There is a big emphasis on finer details, that being different shape mugs, decorative food wrapping, or fun menus. But, it is not style over substance as the little they do they do well and I truly enjoyed my break here.

La Clochette
4680 Cass St

La Clochette feels like stepping into a French bakery with their tartines, fresh bread and pastries and those requisite black-and-white bistro chairs. But, windows that fully slide open to the street are something that places the cafe firmly into the Californian soil. The menu has brunch classics that revolve around fresh sourdough, and for a smaller bite there is a good amount of fresh sweet pastries. While I was eyeing on their mean looking omelettes served with sourdough, I opted for a simple almond croissant to go with the French theme; it was buttery and had a generous amount of almond paste. The coffee comes in a generous mug, but despite the size it is still strong, so perfect for those mornings when you just want a chunky cup to wrap your hands around and slowly wake up. This place feels unhurried and judging by the amount of laptops, acts as a sunny office for many.

Birrieria & Taqueria La Huasteca
865 Turquoise St

There is no shortage of Mexican joints in Pacific Beach. Whilst you can go all out in trendy places and sip immaculately made margaritas, sometimes it’s just nice to eat in a place where all that matters is the food. Birrieria is a no-frills restaurant that has a big outdoor patio, perfect for those sunny breaks when your body and soul crave for some delicious grub. The menu had many dishes I had never heard of, and after the lovely waitress listened to what kind of food I fancied she recommended their wet burrito with carne asada. It was the size of California, smothered in delicious salsa verde, full of rich citrusy flavour in every messy mouthful. I would love to return and try their famous quesabirria tacos, and I would make sure to come hungry.

Taco Surf PB
4657 Mission Blvd

Taco Surf is a casual, fast food Mexican joint that embraces the concept of fast food but equally feels very SoCal with tens of surf boards covering the walls and hanging from the ceiling. Perhaps the menu has a few too many things, but that probably explains why the place was a crowd magnet as you can get Mexican breakfast, tortas and burritos all under one roof.

I had two tacos, al pastor and pollo asado, and these were on the bigger size so two were just enough for a little bite. I normally like my tacos to have a 50/50 ratio of meat/other delicious toppings, but here the tacos were really meat heavy sans a bit of guacamole on top. So whilst I missed some veggies, cilantro or pickles, the meat was tasty. So this is probably a great stop for those carnivores who like their meat ratio to be high. Although there are tons of taquerias in the vicinity the queue was always long so they must be doing most things right.

Fig Tree Cafe
5119 Cass St

Located on a quieter corner of Pacific Beach, Fig Tree Cafe feels like a little respite from the noisier Pacific Beach. This Californian brunch spot only open till late lunch is enveloped by massive trees that curve their branches on top of their covered terrace. Add multiple hanging light bulbs, a coastal theme with surfer murals and blue metal chairs and you can see why this place draws in the crowds every morning.

The menu has staple American breakfast plates; huevos rancheros, meatloaf and pancakes, and naturally, bottomless coffee and mimosas. Whilst there might not be anything too adventurous, this is a typical American breakfast joint with big portions - perhaps an ideal spot after one too many hazies the night before. My veggie scramble was alright; nothing wrong with it but nothing that makes it memorable either. But it was the al fresco setting that made Fig Tree Cafe a great place to stay.

Breakfast Republic
4465 Mission Blvd

Breakfast Republic is a casual San Diego institution famous for its morning feast. The menu is all about American breakfast classics such as Southern grits, breakfast burritos, and maple oozing pancakes. You don’t come here if you are counting calories, but for a happy starch overdose this is the place. Breakfast Republic is designed for big hunger (or small hangovers) as the portions are enormous. You probably can’t find those beloved single origin espressos here but as in any good old diner we opted for bottomless coffee; I think I had about three shamefully big cups. It can get a bit hectic but the atmosphere is very casual and fun. You may want to have a long stroll on the ocean boardwalk afterwards to digest this feast.

Better Buzz Coffee
1186 Garnet Ave

Better Buzz is a San Diego based chain with a dozen locations around the county. They are known for their black and white aesthetics and light bulb signs, clearly geared to the IG generation. There are three establishments around Pacific Beach, but this location on Garnet Avenue is an optimal place to enjoy the Californian sun on a big outdoor patio with plenty of tables and hanging chairs. In true SoCal style many people had dragged their laptops outside too and made this their out-of-office workplace.

I was not impressed that they only have takeaway cups; often that is a dealbreaker for me as it affects the taste and is bad for the environment. But, if I can overlook this, the coffee was perfectly strong with notes of chocolate and black cherries and went well with my sweet banana and walnut cake. There is a great selection of baked goods, ranging from sweet loaves to flakey croissants. As you would expect from a PB establishment, avo toasts and acai bowls are on the menu too. Although the take away cups were a let down, the ample outdoor terrace, baked goods and friendly service really made this a great PB place to hangout and watch the buzzing Garnet Ave.

Ode to Pacific Beach and Bird Rock

Pacific Beach and the neighbouring Bird Rock exemplifies the Southern Californian stereotype of surfers, bikinis and saltwater hair. Whilst the area is undoubtedly touristy and can get crowded, it does have that specific beach community appeal, and tons of great places to enjoy tasty food and drinks. I would argue the highlight of the neighbourhoods, at least for me, are the walks along quieter residential roads with breathtaking views and upscale architecture. Whilst my love for this area might be fuelled by my friends, it does have so many corners that make you feel like on holiday.